Pavacachi is more a military base than a town. We landed on the runway about 3000' of dirt carved from thick rain forest canopy. A short walk to the water took us past the military garrison of 5. One officer maybe 18 or 19 organizing, controlling and directing 4 enlisted that were probably a year or two younger than he. Uniform restrictions were lax. The only way I knew he was an officer was by his cover (hat) it had Lieutenant bars on it. The rest were wearing tattered shorts or sweat suit bottoms like the Eastern Block Russian mafia are always wearing.

Quick side bar, the military garrison had apparently 'lost' their foot ball. Prior to arriving in Pavacachi our mission was to find and purchase a replacement. Think about it, if we were going to be rescued or our security was in doubt they would be the first line of rescue. We had a vested interest in their happiness.

I could easily empathize with the smiles of joy on their faces when they saw the ball, in a previous life I lived in Guantanamo Bay Cuba. After a few words from Mickey, a few 'yeah yeahs, thank you' from them - they immediately began playing with it. Seclusion in the rain forest provides a warped perspective. I didn't understand this exchange at first but looking back. . . I am getting ahead of myself.

Three families of the Kichwa community share Pavacachi with the military. Technically the families own it and are stewards of the land. They can pretty much do with it as they see fit. They have built a lodge, "housing" for the families, an air strip and HF antenna too. Mostly though there is rain forest, 1000s of acres of it. Flying in, one quickly realizes, if things get sideways, it is going to be LONG while before anyone gets to you. There is a symbiotic relationship between Eco Planet Adventures and the families of Pavacachi too. EPA provides the people and cash resources. The families show us the detail of their land a perspective that you cannot read in National Geographic or watch on the Discovery channel. This rain forest adventure is a once in a life-time experience.

Back on the ground in Pavacachi, one of the more impressive factors of the rain forest is the heat and the humidity. During the descent from altitude the cockpit went from a pleasant 75 to 100! It was probably only 95F but it felt like 115. The humidity was impressive too. Is it possible for humidity to be 110%? Standing on the runway, I began to have second thoughts. . . "Damn. They weren't kidding about the heat. Better start drinking my electrolytes. . ." Then the kids showed up with the baby monkey.

Check out the video - here

The Plan was simple, spend 10 days in the rain forest, moving by foot and dug out canoe and camping on sand bars of the Curaray River. Logistically we would, connect with our guides, Eco Planet Adventures in Quito. Zip over to Shell (Mera) by auto. Then blast 200 miles into the rain forest in small plane. Simple - eh?

Shell Mera was established in 1937 as a Shell Oil Company base. It originally consisted of little more than several basic shacks and a 5,000-foot (1,500 m) airstrip. It was operated as part of Shell's prospecting efforts in the region.

The base was located near some Indian tribes that were known to be hostile. On a few occasions the Indians attacked Shell, resulting in the deaths of several employees. The oil company eventually considered the base too dangerous to maintain, and abandoned it in 1948. (WikiPedia -http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Mera)

What they don't tell ya is that between Shell and Pavacachi there isn't anything but pristine rain forest and wide silty rivers. Almost as soon as you take off there isn't anywhere to land!

We flew in a 1970 Islander. Design of the Islander started in 1963 and the first prototype BN-2 first flew on 13 June 1965. The Islander is a high-wing cantilever monoplane with a rectangular fuselage and two wing-mounted engines. The fuselage, which has a conventional tail unit and fixed tricycle landing gear, will usually accommodate one pilot and up to nine passengers and enough gear to last us 10 days. . . (Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Britten-Norman_Islander)

Fortunately, we had a great pilot who knew his way around the cockpit. His trusty Garmin 296 GPS got us right where we needed to be.

The video is the landing click here or click the picture.

Acclimatization:  the process of an organism adjusting to change in its environment, allowing it to survive changes in temperature, water and food availability


Today we headed North along the Pan American Highway to Mamma, Pappa Volcanos, Crater Lake and Weaver's Village.  We did a lot of driving, which was fine.  With only 3 hours of sleep last night, it was nice to have an easy day.

The highway was twisty, windy and full of excitement.  The double yellow line in the middle of the road is just a "suggestion".  People cross it all the time - accidents happen all the time and from what I can tell the police didn't seem to mind.

Crossing the from one valley to the next was dramatic.  One moment you are in the relatively dry area adjacent to Quito, the next you are magically transported into the lush green rolling Andes near some amazing volcanos.

Otavalo, has one of the oldest markets in Ecuador.  They sell just about everything a person living in the region could want.  Oftentimes - no money is exchanged they barter.  What do they barter?  Glad you asked Guinea Pigs.  They are a delicacy here.  Be sure to check out the video on it.

Go to Google Map.  Between Otavalo, Hacienda Pisabo and Cotacachi is Cuicocha volcanic lake.  At almost 11,000 MSL hiking around it will take your breath away.  It was well worth it as the views were spectacular.  The rocks had yellow splotches on them reminding us that the volcano is still active.  The hike around it was amazing.  We saw these bright purple humming birds zooming around and doing their thing.  While I am not a birder, watching them was fascinating.

Cotacahi is where Juan, our driver grew up as a lad.  He said it has changed tremendously under the guidance of their new mayor and tourism.  The streets are paved, the parks have play things for the kids and business, from what I could tell was thriving - almost.  Comprised mostly of mesesitos: formerly a lower class of people within Ecuadorian culture, I was told there are still pockets of segregation in the area.

Be that as it may, the town welcomed us into their restaurant where we tried their wonderful delicacy - Cuy  watch the video - Eating Cuy

Before we left the area we stopped in a weavers village.  Ever wonder how they make all those wonderful rugs?  They do it by hand.  It is amazing to watch.

Final note for today - although right next to each other Ecuadorians and Peruvuans are not friendly to each other.  As recent as 1995 they fought a war in which Ecuador shrank - a great deal.  The Peruvians annexed a large chunk of land to the North.  Now they go back and forth over some other disputed land that contains Uranium. 

Tomorrow hiking Cotapaxi, mountain biking and brain swelling.  We leave Quito for some high altitude hiking (we are not going to summit) and mountain biking.  We will spend the next night in Banos - the "gateway" town to the jungle.  Cannot wait

Quito weather isn't that bad.  The 9200+ elevation is reporting 68F, thunderstorms and humidity 49%.  The jungle area, considerably lower in alitude is gonna be warmer and a lot more humid.  The equipment list options for either a bivvy sack or sleeping bag.   The bivvy sack promised - didn't make it - darn.  The ones at the store are $200+.  Even worse my wonderful North Face down bag, suitable for Mount Everest Expeditions, will most likely soak up moisture and stay wet the whole time.

Online I can see the Kelty Light Year XP and the Mountain Hardwear Lamina.  Does anyone out there have any experience with either?

Kelty Light Year XP  

"The Light Year XP 40° is a summer-weight synthetic bag with a hip-length zipper and zippered foot vent that is perfect for light and fast adventures in unpredictable conditions."

Mountain Hardwear Lamina

"The Lamina™ 0 is an excellent choice for damp, winter conditions. Welded layer construction maintains loft in the bag through repeated washings and compression cycles. This comfortable, roomy, mummy cut bag is insulated with ThermicMicro™ fill. Face gasket and Ergo Draft Co"

They are both light weight and synthetic - key for this adventure.  They both compress into really small stuff bags another nice feature.  Have any of you used either bag?  I am leaning to the Kelty because I burn up with the North Face Inferno and the Kelty is the warmest.  Ideas - anyone?

One of my travel professional friends sent me this from the New York Times.  In it, the aurthor Michelle Higgins suggests some ways to cut your travel costs.  After reading it, I was wondering what SCOA Members do to cut costs?

Read the article and leave your comments below!

10 Ways to Cut Your Travel Costs this Year - Michelle Higgins NYT

With the Jungle Expedition, just a few weeks away, I gotta get on the equipment list.  A link to the event. It is one thing to have everything, it is yet another to have it properly fitted, worn in and in top notch working order.  In the coming days, I'll share the process I go through to get ready for big trips like this. 

The good news is that Mickey is an expert.  The better news is that I am not too proud to ask.

Our first item is the NRS Workboot Wetshoe.  What do you mean I can't wear my Tevas in the jungle?

Were is the entire recommended equipment list:

 Jungle Clothing:

    * Good hiking boots – high top ankle (NRS Workboot Wetshoe)(Low cut shoes or sneakers would not be accepted for the jungle expedition)
    * Light water shoes or ‘crocks’ - 1 pair
    * Wool socks (Smartwool) - 4 pairs
    * Long sleeve earth colors light shirts (Eco-mesh shirt recommended) – 3 shirts
    * Short sleeve earth colors shirts
    * Cool max underwear – 3 pairs
    * Long light pants – 3 pairs
    * Quick drying travel towels – 4
    * Mosquito head nets or Bug Out Jackets
    * Speedo and/or any other swimwear
    * Safari Hat
    * Bandana
    * Sunglasses.
    * Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood
    * Light wool or fleece sweater

COTOPAXI CLIMBING and DESCENDING:

    * Sun block (due to a very high Ultra Violet level at this location)
    * Windbreaker glasses
    * Coat and warm clothing for freezing temperature
    * Warm hat
    * Gloves

EXPEDITION GEAR:

    * Small duffle bag to pack for only a 6 days jungle expedition.
    * Camelback type backpack (2-3 liter size)
    * Water purifier bottle (katadyn - Exstream Purifier Bottle)
    * Extra water purifier Filter
    * LED lights ( headlight/flashlight) – 2 sets suggested
    * Extra batteries for led light
    * Roll up sleeping mattress (Therm a rest) Extra light weight mattress
    * Thermo-Lite 2.0 Bivvy Sack -Ultra light alternative to a summer-light sleeping bag.
    * Water proof dry bag for personal gear and clothing.
    * Hand gloves
    * Anti-Chafing Skin Protection product (bodyglide)
    * Bug repellent
    * Organic bath soap
    * Organic, Bio-graded hand-wash laundry detergent.
    * Whistle – a must to bring.
    * Multi tools (Home Depot).
    * Duct tape
    * Magnesium lighter
    * Electrolytes supplement supply (Hammer nutrition)
    * Energy food / bars of your choice. (supply of 4 to 6 bars a day for 5 days)
    * Camera/video, extra chips and extra batteries.

 

I've got two days to plan a trip to OZ!

Here are some of the suggestions!. .

Gena - Climb Sydney Harbor Bridge, Take a trip to the Blue Mountains for sure (about 2 hrs out of Sydney) but beautiful. On saturday and sundays they have cute farmers markets. If you drink coffee, figure out there coffee language before you go. That was my mistake. :)

Erica - I can connect you with some cool sydney peeps I met when I was there 2 yrs ago!

Mark - Go to Manley beach for a couple of days, nice beach nicer than Bondai. Check out Darling Harbor, Taronga Zoo is cool to see. Outside of Sidney there are a ton of national park areas. - check out the new south wales park site, there is a ton of cool stuff to see. (including the blue mountains that Gena recommended-great mountain biking there!) -...

Barbara - Definitely go to Jenolan (sp?) Caves- about 4 hour outside of Sydney. You should plan to stay over as you can't see all the caves in one day. I think most require a guide. ...they are stunning ...at least the were 15 years ago!

Aleesa - 1) take the ferry to Manly Beach one day- u get good views of the city to boot- it's a beach town good for lazysunbathing, walking the cute neighborhoods, beachside lunch/dinner.
2) spend a day at surfing at Bondi Beach and swim in the salt lake pool that is part of the ocean there (it's a local beach u can pay to do for one day). EXCELLENT running...  Oh and the aquarium in Sydney is great! The shark bit is the best part.

Farron - Just seeing this, but i presume you are not referring to Sidney,MontanaM. Thus, I recommend spending 3 actual days in Sydney and the go walkabout

Me - You people rock. Indeed we are talking about Australia. What about stuff off the beaten path? Aside from Erica, any of you have personal connections in Australia? We will be heading to GBR to dive. Any suggestions there?

Robert - Ah, to have your dilemma... :) (have a blast)

Farron - For what it is worth, Bill Bryson's Sunburnt Country provided me a few personal interest items to consider. Peace.

Jennifer - My cousin & his wife are biologists currently doing insect research in Queensland & Northern Territories. They are all-around cool people. Will you get up that way during your travels? Have a wonderful trip!

Carsten - The blue mountains, the 3 sisteres..... endless off things that you can do!

Kristin - my best friend in the world no pun intended lives down melbourne way... Don't know if you two ever met..Chris Kirby?? Anyhow, I will send you his contact info OK?? Only thing is you have to give him and his wife a hug and kiss from me.. They haven't been stateside in about 10 years!!

Daniel - P. Sherman, 42 Wallaby Way, Sydney....Find Nemo

Marnie - Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb!!! Drive to Kalama for the blow hole. Drive to the Blue Mountains and go hiking. The Rocks. Take in something at the Opera House. Botanical Gardens - and look at those awesome bats! Have fun! If you don't think you'll go back to Oz then fly north - get yourself to Lady Elliott Island, the southern most tip of the GB reef. The diving & snorkeling is fantastic!

Me - @Dan McKendry - actually Nemo made it out to the Channel Islands where he had an untimely encounter with my spear gun http://photos-d.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs118.snc1/4729_113384937817_694482817_2706430_549770_n.jpg

Barbara - Around Dunk Island in the GBR had wonderful scuba diving. - saw giant Clams, Sea Cucumbers and 8' fish I think may have been flounder. ...pretty awesome where ever you go on the GBR, I suspect!
Happy B day and have fun!

Steve - Blue Mountains definitely worth a visit (take the train), walk the top of the bridge, visit palm beach (near mouth of broken bay), darling harbour, the rocks, the opera house and manly.

Now to sort them and make some phone calls.  Oh and my underwater housing just got here. . . I gotta jump in the pool and test!